Demitasse Pastry Update – Allen Bakery

5 Dec

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Changes at Cafe Demitasse. And I mean in the pastry case. Last time we checked in with Demitasse, the coffee got an A+ but the pastries got a B-. What’s changed?

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Demitasse has partnered with Trystero Coffee to roast their coffee sort-of in-house. The current Sumatra Royal Badger coffee is incredible. A beautifully deep, rich coffee that reminds me of coffee I’ve had at Blue Bottle or Stumptown.

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The big news is that Bobby, the owner, has changed their pastry supplier from the clever but mediocre Cake Monkey to a new wholesale operation, Allen Bakery. Information on Allen Bakery is hard to come by. I heard from Bobby that Allen is the product of a former Pie Hole baker. This was surprising to me, considering my previous disappointing experience at the Pie Hole.

I was excited to see that they carried a kouign amann, a traditional Breton pastry that I keep managing to miss at Bouchon Bakery. The only other bakery I know that does one is the newly opened Bread Lounge in the Arts District.

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I was honestly shocked at how great the KA was. It reminded me a bit of a morning bun, in being flaky like a croissant but sugared on the outside. Allen’s KA was accented with caramelization, especially on the bottom, reminding me of a pecan roll. Usually, I don’t prefer pastries to be this sweet, but the flaky texture and the deep caramelized flavor helped counterbalance the sugar.

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I had always been torn between Demitasse and its neighbor, Cafe Dulce, for coffee and sweets. Demitasse pours a better cup, but their pastries were not great. Dulce’s coffee was not as good (especially when they opened serving mediocre LAmill coffee), but they had unique and wonderful pastries, like the green tea roti. But it may be game, set, match Demitasse.

One last note is that the $5 coffee and pastry deal has turned into a $6 deal. Oh well. I’d rather pay the extra buck for the new awesomeness of Allen Bakery’s pastries.

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