Wildcraft Sourdough Pizza — Should Be Wildcraft Lotsodough Pizza! Amirite?

20 Aug


Wildcraft brings woodfired pizzas and craft beers to downtown Culver City. You might think: don’t we already have that? Craft beers? You can’t spit without hitting three bars and restaurants that pride themselves on serving craft beers. Pizza? Ugo and LaRocco’s have been slinging pies for years. But sourdough pizza? OK that’s new.

Wildcraft takes over the Saint Amour space. A digression: a year ago there were three French restaurants within 100 yards on this block. Meet (Me in Paris) was the crowd pleasing bistro serving cliches, like moules frites and steak frites (they serve a lot of frites). L’Epicerie was the marketplace/coffee shop/wine store/Basque restaurant. And Saint Amour was the place that made its own charcuterie and served its steaks actually rare. That one block in LA had three French restaurants was surprising. What is unsurprising is that the worst of the three is the only one that still survives.

Saint Amour was a great modest restaurant. Unpretentious and classic, it was about being a real Parisian brasserie in Culver City. It had a great happy hour, a wonderful duck confit, and one of the few places to serve a decent cassoulet. Seriously, LA, THIS IS WHY WE CAN’T HAVE NICE THINGS!


Anyways, Wildcraft updates the Saint Amour space to make it more like its neighbor, City Tavern. Industrial, hipster-ish, loud. This no longer feels like a brasserie — it feels like every place in town. Although, I’ll admit these murals on the concrete walls are interesting. I just miss the old red banquettes and brass.


Well, let’s talk pizza. Like Sotto and other new pizzerias in town, Wildcraft imported a pizza oven from Naples. This is not like 800 Degrees and its progeny. Service is not quick and they are not pretending to be cheap. Prices are at Mozza levels — about $15 each. So get ready to have high expectations.


I got the burrata pie. Great ingredients with squash blossoms, burrata, provolone, fried rosemary, and pistachio. The pistachios were a bit strange, but overall it was a tasty pie. The pizza was cooked well, bubbly with char and super thin. The sourness is subtle. I’m not sure I would have been able to name it if I hadn’t been told what it was.


The undershot is a bit blurry but you can see decent char.


Overall, I’d say Wildcraft was good, but a bit too rich for my blood. I kept thinking for these prices I could have had Mozza. And Wildcraft is not in Mozza’s league, even though it is a very good pie.


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