Semi Sweet Bakery – Eggslut Should Be Taking Notes

16 Apr

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Eggslut is garnering a lot of press for making breakfast sandwiches a destination, although I think they ruin them with a gigantic brioche that is 50% more bread than I want. The best breakfast sandwich downtown right now is the McFong at Semi Sweet Bakery. Oh, and their baked goods are really good, too.

Sharlena Fong is unusual in not being descended from Nancy Silverton or the Tartine folks. She escaped 9/11 and the finance industry to do pastry at EMP and Per Se in NYC. With this sterling resume, she opened Semi Sweet last year to not much fanfare, and is quietly plugging along across from Cole’s.

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The space is small and a bit dark. It is decorated with a few grandma-ish touches, including mismatched china and teacups.

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There is a refrigerated display case that seems always half-empty, and a counter with a few treats.

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The McFong is a simple sandwich — egg cooked to order, a slice of good bacon, on a cheddar scallion biscuit. That biscuit is the key, a perfect crumbly delicious biscuit. This biscuit is a killer app, and really highlights how crappy Eggslut’s brioche is.

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My only criticism is that I wish they put arugula on it to give it some freshness. That might put it in striking distance of Huckleberry’s incredible breakfast sandwich.

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The baked goods are also pretty great. Less traditional than Huckleberry, more whimsical from the influence of Momofuku Milk Bar. There is a triple chip cookie, which is a clear descendant of the Momofuku compost cookie, having butterscotch chips and potato chips in addition to chocolate chips. Here are the red velvet doughnut and one of the Ding a Lings.

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The doughnut is great — cake style, wonderfully moist. Even though it is glazed, it is not cloyingly sweet.

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The Ding a Ling is another adult ding dong, like the version at Essential Chocolates in Culver City. It is much smaller, just a couple bites. But it is awesome — rich, dark chocolate, not too sweet, nice creaminess. Just excellent.

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Semi Sweet Bakery
105 E 6th St
(213) 228-9975
Los Angeles

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